Dermaplaning: Everything You Need to Know
What it is, how it works, what it costs professionally versus at home, how long results last, and whether you're a candidate — all in one place.
Dermaplaning has been a staple of professional aesthetics for decades. Recently it's moved into the mainstream — both in salons and as an at-home practice. If you've heard about it and aren't sure what it actually involves, this is the complete guide.
What Is Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation method that uses a single-edge blade to remove the top layer of dead skin cells and vellus hair (peach fuzz) from the face.
It's sometimes described as "upgraded face shaving" — which is technically accurate but undersells the exfoliation component. The difference between dermaplaning and standard shaving is the blade design and the technique: a dermaplaning tool is designed for surface exfoliation, not just hair removal.
The procedure involves holding the skin taut and passing the blade in short, feathery strokes at a 45-degree angle. The result is a smoother, more radiant complexion — the kind of glow that would take a chemical peel or microdermabrasion to replicate.
What It Does for Your Skin
- Removes the buildup of dead skin that makes skin look dull
- Eliminates vellus hair that traps oil and debris in pores
- Creates a smooth surface for more even makeup application
- Increases the absorption rate of serums, oils, and moisturizers
- Stimulates new cell turnover
- Reduces the visibility of fine lines and hyperpigmentation temporarily
Professional vs. At-Home Dermaplaning
Professional treatment: Uses a #10 surgical scalpel. The blade is significantly sharper and larger than an at-home tool. A licensed aesthetician or dermatologist performs the procedure on prepped, dry skin. Cost typically ranges from $60–$120 per session depending on location and provider.
At-home dermaplaning: Uses a purpose-built dermaplaning razor — a single-edge tool in a safety handle, typically foldable. The blade is designed for consumer use: still highly effective, but with a built-in safety margin. With a Dermaplaning Razor — 9-Pack, the cost works out to about $1.11 per session.
| Professional | At-home | |
|---|---|---|
| Cost per session | $60–$120 | ~$1.11 |
| Location | Salon or dermatology office | Your bathroom mirror |
| Time | 30–60 minutes, plus travel | 10–15 minutes |
| Blade | #10 surgical scalpel | Single-edge safety razor |
| Frequency | Every 4–6 weeks | Every 2–4 weeks |
For most people with normal skin concerns (texture, peach fuzz, dullness), at-home dermaplaning produces results that are functionally comparable to professional treatment for a fraction of the cost.
Tip
Replace the blade every one to two sessions. A fresh edge glides; a dull one drags — and drag is what causes irritation.
Common Questions
Does it hurt?
No. The sensation is a light sweeping feeling against the skin. There's no pulling, tugging, or stinging. Even on sensitive skin, most people find the procedure entirely comfortable.
Will the hair grow back thicker?
No. Shaving vellus hair has no effect on the follicle. The hair grows back at the same rate with the same color and texture. The "shaving makes hair coarser" belief comes from the appearance of a blunt-cut tip versus the natural tapered end — not from any physical change in the hair.
How long do results last?
Typically 3–4 weeks. This is also how long your skin needs to rebuild the exfoliated layer before the next session. Dermaplaning more frequently does not improve results — it interrupts the healing cycle.
Is it safe for dark skin tones?
Yes. Dermaplaning is safe for all skin tones. It's a mechanical exfoliation method with no chemical component that could affect pigmentation. Many users with darker skin tones prefer it specifically because of the absence of acid-based side effects.
Can I dermaplane if I have acne?
Not over active breakouts. Dermaplaning over inflamed acne can spread bacteria and worsen the condition. If you have isolated breakouts, treat those areas carefully or avoid them entirely. For skin that's prone to non-cystic acne, dermaplaning can actually be preventive — removing the debris that contributes to clogged pores.
What products should I use after?
Apply skincare immediately after dermaplaning while your skin is at peak absorption. A snail mucin serum or lightweight hyaluronic acid serum applied within the first few minutes will absorb significantly better than it would on untreated skin. Follow with a gentle moisturizer. In the morning, always apply SPF — freshly exfoliated skin burns faster.
Wait before actives
Hold off on AHAs, BHAs, and retinoids for 24–48 hours after dermaplaning. Freshly exfoliated skin absorbs more aggressively, and strong actives applied too soon can sting and irritate.
The Full Ritual
If you want the most benefit from a dermaplaning session, the complete routine is:
- Pre-shave oil to reduce friction and protect the skin
- Dermaplaning with a fresh razor at a 45-degree angle
- Cool water rinse, pat dry
- Snail mucin recovery serum applied immediately
- Moisturizer to seal everything in
- SPF (daytime)
The oil and serum are what separate a good dermaplaning session from a great one. The blade does the exfoliation. Everything else supports recovery and maximizes results.